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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.